Pure and simple, to do what I do, you have to be nearly obsessive/compulsive. I find myself watching Dr. Phil and thinking about mixing eyeliner colors. No kidding, it can really take over. But I, of course, love it. I'm sitting here right now with streaks of different eyeliners on my hand. I'm also listening to teen girls getting tattoos and their parents finding out through myspace. Oh my gosh what is the world coming to.
Anyway...this girl's makeup looks good. Light pink eyeshadow, dark pink/purple contouring, peachy cheeks and lips; perfect for 15. Oh yea, she had a completely rimmed eye in brown, not black, pencil. Now, I completely agree with this. Black is not the be all and end all of liners. Brown, navy, charcoal, and espresso colors are also good choices. Fun choices include purple, pink, white, baby blue, silver....and so many more of course! I was just thinking that lining in an eye with a wing in black and then going over it with a wet hotpink or sparkly purple eyeshadow, either could look amazing. I will probably try that soon, but it's definitely not for everyone. My point is only to step out of your comfort zone once in a while. Do you know I have not done the same makeup on myself two days in a row, and rarely twice even in the same week? I feel that it's a good practice, but sometimes I forget what I create but I do have a few go-to favorites. Purple shadow is fairly easy to go to for anyone...since most people don't have purple eyes, the fact that this color is opposite nearly every human eyecolor, it works well on everyone.
I've seen Julianne Moore (redhead) made up for a magazine wearing dark purple heavily rimmed eyes with baby pink shadow, pink cheeks/lips. I've also seen Kim Kardashian (who is known for over-makeup), who was made up with sparkly light gold/brown shadow, no eyeliner, peachy cheeks and red lips. Her lashes were lush, long, and probably fake...but no eyeliner! The look was very minimal but still glamorous. Kim K. was the perfect example that less is more, and clean matters more, when making up a face. They focused purely on her lush lashes and red lips; how classic. I hope these examples inspire how you think color can work on different skin tones.
Dark skin tones don't need to just stick with browns. Pinks, Peaches, and down right orange can look great on dark skin. Not to mention the reds and plums that they wear so much better than anyone. Don't get me wrong, I've worn red blush, but I make it more golden (as in gold shimmer highlight on top of cheek bone). And just so we are clear, I'm white as white and have dark hair, so red blush takes some skill to work out on me. It's not for the faint of heart when it comes to color. For most people, peaches and pinks and warm tone blushes work well.
Well, I think I've come to the end of my thoughts on color for evening. If anyone has any specific color questions please feel free to send them my way, and I will try to help. My ending thought, is that we shouldn't ever be scared by how many colors we see to choose from, it should instead inspire all the possibilities and combinations our imagination can think up.
Friday, March 18, 2011
Thursday, March 10, 2011
Makeup and How We Think of Ourselves.
There is a lot that goes into making a great face. There are also many factors that come into play and help you make decisions (e.g. bridal, photography, skin color and texture, lighting, outfits, type of look you want achieve...). I generally like to think that I am not an obsessive person, but my job really requires it! It requires attention to detail and constant touching up. Makeup is not permanent so it continues to change, and we (artists I mean) have to tame it back into place sometimes!
Don't get me wrong, I was born for this profession, but there are many minute details about it that the average person doesn't know about it. Things like; blend, blend, blend some more 'til it's perfect! And color theory, do you have any idea what goes into color theory? I've touched on it briefly in past blogs with talking about undertones and mixing of foundation and powder, but there is way more. To perfectly tone any foundation for my clients, I ordered highly pigmented foundation tints that come in white, yellow, blue, green, red, and black. I have to know which colors to add to a foundation to get a right match for any skintone and undertone. But I love it!!!! That's why I love working on so many different people, it gives me a chance to practice different techniques and uses or manipulations of color. When I was first taught custom foundation I took it for granted; I almost didn't really want to learn. Now that I am practicing a whole lot more and getting some business, I realize what a great skill I was taught. Especially when it comes to things like Bridal or Photography makeup, the foundation absolutely cannot (I repeat cannot) be wrong!
On top of that, I need to know how certain colors will play off any person's skintone. And trust me when I say they ask you! I need to know what colors to mix together in order to get the right eyeshadow, or the perfect lipcolor. No kidding, I get really detailed when I'm working on a client. Even if it's just practice, I do my work to my 100% perfection every time, period. I realize sometimes I'm not even talking with clients, or really engaging in the conversation fully when I am deep in my work. My mouth sort of goes on autopilot and my brain takes over with transformation goal in mind.
I often hear when I'm done, "I've never seen myself look this good!" and my reply is usually, "I knew you could!". Sometimes I'm making up a face and realize what I am doing is looking so much better than I originally thought. Vision comes alive on a person's face. It's actually more rare for me to say, "um, I don't like how this is coming out". I've been making up faces since middle school and I feel I've learned a lot about women's faces and how to enhance them, so much so that now I rarely mess up. I'm not trying to brag here, I'm saying there are universal things about our faces as women that are inherently beautiful and fairly easy to play them up. It's hard to make a mistake on woman's face because we were genetically born to be beautiful. If our DNA has a choice to express an ugly gene or a beautiful gene, because we are women, the more beautiful expression of the gene will always prevail. Science has proved it. (fyi, my sister told me that, so I don't know where she got her info, though I think she got it from bio class. And she is a college graduate with a bachelor's degree, so I tend to believe her)
I know in my head how good someone can look. I know because, first I make up myself everyday and that is no easy task. And secondly, we only see our flaws and think there is nothing we can do about it. Wrong! Look, I got into this in middle school because I had particularily red skin. I would sneak makeup to school just to cover it. Finally my mom let me experiment with foundations and I was off and running full speed. In my head, once you're allowed foundation, eyeshadow, eyeliner, mascara, blush, and lips aren't too far of a jump! Anyway, taking off at that speed, I learned at an early age that our flaws are not permanent. We can take steps and use a little smoke and mirrors to make them appear less obvious. On a larger scale, we can change our bodies and our minds into whatever we want them to be...I mean what a great thing to learn just through makeup! Seriously, if every one of us women out there would look at our flaws as something that can be dealt with instead of just the hand we were dealt...the world would be a different place.
If you think about it, the fashion and beauty industries make money on us thinking badly of ourselves. Some stores cater only to thin and tall women; while others imply you will only be happy if you buy things to look good. Beauty products are vast and wide for the beige to medium (or tanned), but very dark or very white women are left hanging out to dry. While we are over in a corner preoccupied with "women things", men like to run the show. Forget it. It's time we all learned that our flaws don't define us.
I'd like to talk about some tips next, but I also would like to mention my simple eyeshadow tips were in a previous blog.
Anyhow...Got that dark ringed, tired look? Pink or peach toned concealer can do wonders! If you are of darker toned skin, you will choose peach/orange based concealer here. Concealer should be of sheer, buildable coverage and glide on smoothly. If it's cakey, it's all wrong. If your concealer is a little dry, you can mix a tad of foundation with it. Be sure to blend the concealer into the inner and outer corners of the eyes. Add a light translucent powder to set, and be sure to go back and forth across the under eye area (rolling your brush) to get all the tiny crevasses. Voila! Awake!
Next, aging or sagging eyes should never be paired with anything shimmery. Satin at most if you want an irridescent type sheen, but other than, no shine. Shimmer and shin will enhance the crapiness. What you want are matte (no shine) shadows. And yes I know they are hard to find, but it is getting easier now than it was a few years ago. Professional cosmetics sell more matte shadows than anyone due to high demand; you can find professional quality products in Coastal Scents Cosmetics, Fash, Shany, and BH Cosmetics. Drugstores now are also selling some matte shadows, so just spend some time there and you will find a few suitable ones I'm sure.
Blush is one of those topics that everyone seems to ask about. What color? Where do I put it? There is not one answer here so I will explain. Peachy toned blushes are usually great on almost everyone. Peach tends to naturally enhance cheeks without looking obvious. I think of it like when watching old Technicolor movies, all their cheeks were peach. The lighter and brighter the peach, the lighter the skin tone it belongs on. What I mean to say is, if you are light choose lighter peach and if you are dark you can go almost orange. If you like pinks, warm or "darker" pinks are the most natural looking. Hot pinks are better left reserved to the professionals as they are highly pigmented. Darker skinned people also look good in plums and reds, so feel free to play with those as well. Now...where do you put it? For most people, right on the cheek bone works well (leaving a space of about a finger and a half from the nose). Apply in a slightly upward/outward motion for best results...not upward like 80's blush upward though! More like right along the natural slant of your cheekbone. For people with more narrow faces or those who want the natural flushed look, smile and apply blush right to apples of the cheeks (blend outward slightly).
As for lipcolor, general rule is to keep it in the same color family as your blush. Peachy cheeks with coral, peach, or flesh nude lips. Pink cheeks with rosey or pink lips or even pink nude lips. Now, I know you are thinking, "well I don't typically wear red blush...so...". With red lips, you match the blush to the tone of the lipcolor. For instance, an orange/red lipcolor needs to be paired with peachy cheeks. And blue/red lipcolor is paired with pink or hotpink cheeks. Now, true red lipcolor (red with red undertones) is a little more versatile...it can be paired with nude/warm cheeks, peachy cheeks, or warm pinks (again hot pink is a skill to match with red lips). If you are a red lips sort of girl....please, please, please consider your eyeshadow in the whole equation (e.g purple eyeshadow usually requires blue/red lips). If you are going nude eyed and just want a lips and cheeks look, red is your best friend. Red lips is also easiest to get right when you have nude eyes.
A few last little tips, black eyeliner is often too harsh in my opinion for daytime; choose brown or grey for some thoughtful softness. You don't even have to totally rim your eye, a thin line on the top only with concealer I mentioned is a very clean and awake look. Mascara for daytime doesn't always need to be black either, browns and off/black work nicely too. Anyhow to tie up here, these few tips will help you look your best. Not everyone needs a full face of makeup all the time. But all of us should start thinking of ourselves a little better today.
Don't get me wrong, I was born for this profession, but there are many minute details about it that the average person doesn't know about it. Things like; blend, blend, blend some more 'til it's perfect! And color theory, do you have any idea what goes into color theory? I've touched on it briefly in past blogs with talking about undertones and mixing of foundation and powder, but there is way more. To perfectly tone any foundation for my clients, I ordered highly pigmented foundation tints that come in white, yellow, blue, green, red, and black. I have to know which colors to add to a foundation to get a right match for any skintone and undertone. But I love it!!!! That's why I love working on so many different people, it gives me a chance to practice different techniques and uses or manipulations of color. When I was first taught custom foundation I took it for granted; I almost didn't really want to learn. Now that I am practicing a whole lot more and getting some business, I realize what a great skill I was taught. Especially when it comes to things like Bridal or Photography makeup, the foundation absolutely cannot (I repeat cannot) be wrong!
On top of that, I need to know how certain colors will play off any person's skintone. And trust me when I say they ask you! I need to know what colors to mix together in order to get the right eyeshadow, or the perfect lipcolor. No kidding, I get really detailed when I'm working on a client. Even if it's just practice, I do my work to my 100% perfection every time, period. I realize sometimes I'm not even talking with clients, or really engaging in the conversation fully when I am deep in my work. My mouth sort of goes on autopilot and my brain takes over with transformation goal in mind.
I often hear when I'm done, "I've never seen myself look this good!" and my reply is usually, "I knew you could!". Sometimes I'm making up a face and realize what I am doing is looking so much better than I originally thought. Vision comes alive on a person's face. It's actually more rare for me to say, "um, I don't like how this is coming out". I've been making up faces since middle school and I feel I've learned a lot about women's faces and how to enhance them, so much so that now I rarely mess up. I'm not trying to brag here, I'm saying there are universal things about our faces as women that are inherently beautiful and fairly easy to play them up. It's hard to make a mistake on woman's face because we were genetically born to be beautiful. If our DNA has a choice to express an ugly gene or a beautiful gene, because we are women, the more beautiful expression of the gene will always prevail. Science has proved it. (fyi, my sister told me that, so I don't know where she got her info, though I think she got it from bio class. And she is a college graduate with a bachelor's degree, so I tend to believe her)
I know in my head how good someone can look. I know because, first I make up myself everyday and that is no easy task. And secondly, we only see our flaws and think there is nothing we can do about it. Wrong! Look, I got into this in middle school because I had particularily red skin. I would sneak makeup to school just to cover it. Finally my mom let me experiment with foundations and I was off and running full speed. In my head, once you're allowed foundation, eyeshadow, eyeliner, mascara, blush, and lips aren't too far of a jump! Anyway, taking off at that speed, I learned at an early age that our flaws are not permanent. We can take steps and use a little smoke and mirrors to make them appear less obvious. On a larger scale, we can change our bodies and our minds into whatever we want them to be...I mean what a great thing to learn just through makeup! Seriously, if every one of us women out there would look at our flaws as something that can be dealt with instead of just the hand we were dealt...the world would be a different place.
If you think about it, the fashion and beauty industries make money on us thinking badly of ourselves. Some stores cater only to thin and tall women; while others imply you will only be happy if you buy things to look good. Beauty products are vast and wide for the beige to medium (or tanned), but very dark or very white women are left hanging out to dry. While we are over in a corner preoccupied with "women things", men like to run the show. Forget it. It's time we all learned that our flaws don't define us.
I'd like to talk about some tips next, but I also would like to mention my simple eyeshadow tips were in a previous blog.
Anyhow...Got that dark ringed, tired look? Pink or peach toned concealer can do wonders! If you are of darker toned skin, you will choose peach/orange based concealer here. Concealer should be of sheer, buildable coverage and glide on smoothly. If it's cakey, it's all wrong. If your concealer is a little dry, you can mix a tad of foundation with it. Be sure to blend the concealer into the inner and outer corners of the eyes. Add a light translucent powder to set, and be sure to go back and forth across the under eye area (rolling your brush) to get all the tiny crevasses. Voila! Awake!
Next, aging or sagging eyes should never be paired with anything shimmery. Satin at most if you want an irridescent type sheen, but other than, no shine. Shimmer and shin will enhance the crapiness. What you want are matte (no shine) shadows. And yes I know they are hard to find, but it is getting easier now than it was a few years ago. Professional cosmetics sell more matte shadows than anyone due to high demand; you can find professional quality products in Coastal Scents Cosmetics, Fash, Shany, and BH Cosmetics. Drugstores now are also selling some matte shadows, so just spend some time there and you will find a few suitable ones I'm sure.
Blush is one of those topics that everyone seems to ask about. What color? Where do I put it? There is not one answer here so I will explain. Peachy toned blushes are usually great on almost everyone. Peach tends to naturally enhance cheeks without looking obvious. I think of it like when watching old Technicolor movies, all their cheeks were peach. The lighter and brighter the peach, the lighter the skin tone it belongs on. What I mean to say is, if you are light choose lighter peach and if you are dark you can go almost orange. If you like pinks, warm or "darker" pinks are the most natural looking. Hot pinks are better left reserved to the professionals as they are highly pigmented. Darker skinned people also look good in plums and reds, so feel free to play with those as well. Now...where do you put it? For most people, right on the cheek bone works well (leaving a space of about a finger and a half from the nose). Apply in a slightly upward/outward motion for best results...not upward like 80's blush upward though! More like right along the natural slant of your cheekbone. For people with more narrow faces or those who want the natural flushed look, smile and apply blush right to apples of the cheeks (blend outward slightly).
As for lipcolor, general rule is to keep it in the same color family as your blush. Peachy cheeks with coral, peach, or flesh nude lips. Pink cheeks with rosey or pink lips or even pink nude lips. Now, I know you are thinking, "well I don't typically wear red blush...so...". With red lips, you match the blush to the tone of the lipcolor. For instance, an orange/red lipcolor needs to be paired with peachy cheeks. And blue/red lipcolor is paired with pink or hotpink cheeks. Now, true red lipcolor (red with red undertones) is a little more versatile...it can be paired with nude/warm cheeks, peachy cheeks, or warm pinks (again hot pink is a skill to match with red lips). If you are a red lips sort of girl....please, please, please consider your eyeshadow in the whole equation (e.g purple eyeshadow usually requires blue/red lips). If you are going nude eyed and just want a lips and cheeks look, red is your best friend. Red lips is also easiest to get right when you have nude eyes.
A few last little tips, black eyeliner is often too harsh in my opinion for daytime; choose brown or grey for some thoughtful softness. You don't even have to totally rim your eye, a thin line on the top only with concealer I mentioned is a very clean and awake look. Mascara for daytime doesn't always need to be black either, browns and off/black work nicely too. Anyhow to tie up here, these few tips will help you look your best. Not everyone needs a full face of makeup all the time. But all of us should start thinking of ourselves a little better today.
Thursday, March 3, 2011
Classic Beauty Never Fades
One of the most common questions a Makeup Artist or beauty consultant is asked, what colors are season right now? Now, do not get me wrong here, it's important to keep learning and see what's being done mainstream in makeup, BUT there are some beauty techniques that will always work and look fabulous.
First, remember that we live in era when anything goes with fashion! All of last century was defined by typical decade trends; you can look at a photo from the 60's and except to see certain garbe...and this is true with the 80's, 70's, 50's, and every decade! Now you can barely tell a difference in fashion from 2000 til 2010. This is true because we have pulled from good fashion inspiration of past decades, and bring them alive in a new way...which translates to acceptance of any type of clothing choice. The same is true in makeup. A 60's winged eyeliner is acceptable today because of it's classic beauty inspiration, Marilyn Monroe. A monochromatic (nude, flesh toned from eyes to lips) makeup look is acceptable today because of the 70's makeup, which was little or none and mostly unkempt. 80's and 90's brought out our love for vibrant color and heavily rimmed eyes. Do you see where I'm going with this? Possibilites and range of makeup acceptance are ENDLESS!
Now, I might be a bit biased because I've grown up with classics all around me. My mom started me off garage saleing and thrift store shopping; and it didn't stop there. We have my great-grandparents furniture from the 1920's. I own the vanity, my sister the buffet, and my mom the china hutch and bedroom furniture. My mom has also owned a set of china from the early 1900's that she bought from a neighbors garage sale.
Being around these things has given me an appreciation for anything classic. If you look closely at photos from my wedding, you can tell my own personal look that day was classic and somewhat victorian. Even my wedding rings are antique in style inspiration. I believe makeup can have the same classic elements that are timeless. I mean, when was the last time red lipstick was out of style? Or when was eyeliner in any fashion just out? Exactly, never.
As artist, I try to find new ways of using old techniques. For instance, a nicely winged eyeliner (which everyone knows I LOVE), can be paired with a nude lip instead of typical red lips. Or I can do a nude or flesh tone inspired eyes and cheeks but pair with a vibrant lip. 80's vibrant shadows can be worked into todays' three and five piece eyes instead of the pasts' barbie doll type(baby blue, pink, and peach) application. Even today's smokey eye is inspired by 1920's wash of dark color all over the lid with heavily smudged dark color beneath the eye; we just tend toward a nude lip with a smokey eye now. Although I will say a smokey eye with deep color lips can still be done today as well.We are also allowed to just sweep any color over the top lid with peachy-pink blush like was done with pastels in the 1930's; only now we have the option of a light glossy lip instead of full color lips. Even brows today can be thick, thin, medium, kempt and unkempt!
Makeup trends that stay timeless are these: Red lips, Black or Brown eyeliner applied in any fashion, long luscious lashes, medium brown or taupe colors on eyes, and a healthy rosey or peach glow. Any one of these I mentioned can be done alone or in combination with each other. The whole point of mentioning classic looks is because they will always keep you beautiful and look good on almost everyone.
I tried to discuss classics as much as possible, but also remember we can improve on the past. We can look at photos of old beauty and transform them into modern by tweaking things here and there. The greater goal is to be inspired by classics rather clinging to them. I hope everyone out there can be inspired by both new and old photos of makeup I will post below.
First, remember that we live in era when anything goes with fashion! All of last century was defined by typical decade trends; you can look at a photo from the 60's and except to see certain garbe...and this is true with the 80's, 70's, 50's, and every decade! Now you can barely tell a difference in fashion from 2000 til 2010. This is true because we have pulled from good fashion inspiration of past decades, and bring them alive in a new way...which translates to acceptance of any type of clothing choice. The same is true in makeup. A 60's winged eyeliner is acceptable today because of it's classic beauty inspiration, Marilyn Monroe. A monochromatic (nude, flesh toned from eyes to lips) makeup look is acceptable today because of the 70's makeup, which was little or none and mostly unkempt. 80's and 90's brought out our love for vibrant color and heavily rimmed eyes. Do you see where I'm going with this? Possibilites and range of makeup acceptance are ENDLESS!
Now, I might be a bit biased because I've grown up with classics all around me. My mom started me off garage saleing and thrift store shopping; and it didn't stop there. We have my great-grandparents furniture from the 1920's. I own the vanity, my sister the buffet, and my mom the china hutch and bedroom furniture. My mom has also owned a set of china from the early 1900's that she bought from a neighbors garage sale.
Being around these things has given me an appreciation for anything classic. If you look closely at photos from my wedding, you can tell my own personal look that day was classic and somewhat victorian. Even my wedding rings are antique in style inspiration. I believe makeup can have the same classic elements that are timeless. I mean, when was the last time red lipstick was out of style? Or when was eyeliner in any fashion just out? Exactly, never.
As artist, I try to find new ways of using old techniques. For instance, a nicely winged eyeliner (which everyone knows I LOVE), can be paired with a nude lip instead of typical red lips. Or I can do a nude or flesh tone inspired eyes and cheeks but pair with a vibrant lip. 80's vibrant shadows can be worked into todays' three and five piece eyes instead of the pasts' barbie doll type(baby blue, pink, and peach) application. Even today's smokey eye is inspired by 1920's wash of dark color all over the lid with heavily smudged dark color beneath the eye; we just tend toward a nude lip with a smokey eye now. Although I will say a smokey eye with deep color lips can still be done today as well.We are also allowed to just sweep any color over the top lid with peachy-pink blush like was done with pastels in the 1930's; only now we have the option of a light glossy lip instead of full color lips. Even brows today can be thick, thin, medium, kempt and unkempt!
Makeup trends that stay timeless are these: Red lips, Black or Brown eyeliner applied in any fashion, long luscious lashes, medium brown or taupe colors on eyes, and a healthy rosey or peach glow. Any one of these I mentioned can be done alone or in combination with each other. The whole point of mentioning classic looks is because they will always keep you beautiful and look good on almost everyone.
I tried to discuss classics as much as possible, but also remember we can improve on the past. We can look at photos of old beauty and transform them into modern by tweaking things here and there. The greater goal is to be inspired by classics rather clinging to them. I hope everyone out there can be inspired by both new and old photos of makeup I will post below.
Sunday, February 27, 2011
I've learned there is a lot of fear surrounding cosmetics.
Fear of makeup, you ask? Yes definitely. I have made up two very good friends in the last few days and both have commented to me that they had never seen themselves all made up before! Are you kidding me? That notion is so foreign to me as I've worn a full face of makeup since 8th grade (I'm not exaggerating).
As I continue to think about those comments, I realize they probably haven't been fully made up because they don't know how or are scared, or even a combination of both. I understand now, that part of my job as the artist is to teach the person at the same time. Everyone is different but there are a few things that can be done that apply to most people and I'll get to that later...
Also listening is very important. I spend a lot of time creating based on what a client wants, not just by verbal but also non verbal listening. For instance, I was doing a winged eyeliner on my friend and I knew one side was ever so slightly different than the other, so I gave her the mirror and let her choose if she wanted to leave it or I would fix it. I could tell she really wanted it fixed but was telling me it was fine, so I fixed it anyway. It was not much trouble at all and I don't mind doing those small fixes if it satisfies the woman in the chair. Also remember that fixing just means you tried and it needs work...it doesn't mean you give up. We women tend to neglect ourselves and take care of everyone else, so allow yourself some time to play and be you...don't give up on you. My husband always whines about how long it takes me to get ready, and my truest response is that it's my private time that I take for myself. Even if you don't want makeup to be your private time, you owe it to yourself to take care of you...it renews your own self worth and recharges the batteries we all run on.
We all want to be happy with how we look. So I'm going to continue with a few tips that work well for everyday. To start, foundation is a matter of personal choice; whether you skip it completely or want opaque coverage, it is totally up to you. For most people, a sheer lightweight foundation and powdered just in shiny spots works well for everyday. Another tip is to put your foundation (and that includes tinted moisturizer) on first before you conceal anything. That tip changes if you have very dark spots that need a lot of concealing, but most of the time concealer goes on last because foundation in itself creates some concealing effects. Concealing dark spots is best done with peach or orange colored concealers. Concealing of acne is done with a half shade or full shad lighter than your skintone concealer and it's usually lightly yellow but sometimes yellow/peach mixed. Green concealers can be used to counter act redness but that takes skill. Yellow concealers do the same job to cover redness, if not better, and definitely easier.
Choosing a foundation is fairly simple if you know what you are doing. First step is to look at all your skin, not just your face and try to figure out your undertone (essentially the color behind the shade of your skin). Red heads for example tend to have blue/red undertones so any type of foundation that is yellow can make them look sallow or jaundice in worst case scenario. True blue/red foundation is difficult to find, so as a backup pink undertoned foundation can be used. I say pink because pink will match up with some of the red from blue/red undertones without being too obvious (if you have this skin then use either invisible setting powder or very slightly pinked powder; yellow will turn orange with a pink foundation). Very light pink undertoned foundation looks almost white and without any tint of yellow, just as a guide.
So other than very dark or very light people, most people have some yellow in their skin. If this is you, mainstream foundations will be fairly easily matched for you, just find the right depth of color for you skintone. As for powder in this category, choose invisible or very slightly yellow translucent powder to set. Again if you choose a pink powder with yellow foundation, you will turn orange.
Next, Indian or Middle Eastern skin sometimes has a mix of yellow and green. Most of the time you can get away with a yellow toned foundation. If there is a lot of green, I would suggest getting a custom made foundation. You can also try mix a little green concealer with your yellow foundation and see if that works for you. Powder here should be kept super translucent or invisible, but definitely slightly yellowed instead of pink.
African American skintones vary quite widely. They can be yellow, peach/orange, blue/red, or just red in the undertones. Yellow is easy, just follow the steps above if you are only yellow. Peach or orange undertones are dealt with in two separate ways and it depends on how peach or orange you are. If you are mostly yellow, then go with a yellow foundation and a slightly red powder. If you are more red than yellow, go with a red foundation and slightly yellowed powder. Blue/red and Red toned skin is usually the darkest of the dark toned skin types. Red and slightly blue/red dark skin needs a red toned foundation and invisible or very translucent powder applied with a light hand because you don't want to look ashey. Some red dark skinned women will wear a red foundation with red powder, but only do that if it matches your skintones perfectly. Deeply blue/red usually needs custom foundation, which can be found in some department stores or an artist can show you how (I have heard that Iman Cosmetics and Black Pearl Cosmetics may carry good quality foundation for hard to match dark skin). Custom foundation here may also include a mix of two foundations to counter act facial masking if there is any. Any African American skin can have facial masking though. It is dealt with in two ways:
By applying orange concealer on the dark spots and covering with matching foundation. Or it is done by mixing a somewhat lighter foundation onto the dark areas, and then a slightly darker foundation onto the light areas so when blended together they look like the same color all over. Don't forget that undertones matter the most with dark skin as anything wrong will appear bright and ashey on the skin just because dark skin shows contrast very easily. We don't want contrast when it comes to foundation, we want cohesive and harmonious.
Now that you are all matched and ready to go eyes, cheeks and lips for everyday wear are next. A medium shade brown eyeshadow (shimmer or matte depending on preference) can do wonders. Just sweep over lid and under the eyes. Then you blend into the crease, add highlighter shade under brows and mascara....voila! With this particular eye, you can choose any blush and lipstick in the same color family...say peach cheeks with peachy or red/orange lips or pink blush and rose or bubblegum lips. For more drama, use a hot pink blush and true red or blue/red lips.
For a more sophisticated look, there is a three-piece eye that is fairly simple. First, highlighter or light shade all over the lid. Medium shade in the crease, and then a shimmery or matte highlighter shade under the brow (looks best if the light shade from the bottom is different than the one you put under the brow). For this eye choose any sort of color family you want, but use the light and medium shades of that chosen family...unless you feel more artistic and bold as I often do and break that rule. If you want more info and how to break that rule, I can answer that some other time as it is really more of a tutorial.
Stuck on what colors to choose? The most natural looking colors are ones that match your natural coloring. Say again, red heads look great in golds, peaches, and oranges. You can wear colors that do not match your skin tones but keep in mind it will appear more dramatic, and that is to say dramatic is not wrong. There are very few things in makeup that are really wrong, and if there is, it's fixable and tweakable. For most people, I would suggest if you want to try a color that doesn't match your skin tones, try it on only the eyes or only the lips and keep the other matching. If you have unmatched eyes and lips together, for most people, it looks overly dramatic (and there is a time and place for that, always).
Well I hope I have dispelled some of the fears of the unknown with what I have written. I know there are a great many more details to share that pertain specifically to each skintone, but I tried to give the general knowledge version this time. The most important thing to remember that Kevin Aucoin is quoted as saying, "Noboday ever learned anything by playing it safe". So play around with colors you like even if you think they won't work...if it doesn't, try to figure out why it didn't work or what can be mixed to make it work. Worst case scenario, wash it off and start over. Nothing in makeup is permanent, so why not take a risk? Or experiment? I know that's part of my job and it's easy for me to say, but remember I have been the novice too. I have made makeup mistakes. I have had to start over, large and small. So I understand where the fear comes from, but fear is just not a good enough reason not to try.
I mentioned:
Black Pearl and Iman Cosmetics; these can be easily found online and then you can find where it's sold locally close to you.
As I continue to think about those comments, I realize they probably haven't been fully made up because they don't know how or are scared, or even a combination of both. I understand now, that part of my job as the artist is to teach the person at the same time. Everyone is different but there are a few things that can be done that apply to most people and I'll get to that later...
Also listening is very important. I spend a lot of time creating based on what a client wants, not just by verbal but also non verbal listening. For instance, I was doing a winged eyeliner on my friend and I knew one side was ever so slightly different than the other, so I gave her the mirror and let her choose if she wanted to leave it or I would fix it. I could tell she really wanted it fixed but was telling me it was fine, so I fixed it anyway. It was not much trouble at all and I don't mind doing those small fixes if it satisfies the woman in the chair. Also remember that fixing just means you tried and it needs work...it doesn't mean you give up. We women tend to neglect ourselves and take care of everyone else, so allow yourself some time to play and be you...don't give up on you. My husband always whines about how long it takes me to get ready, and my truest response is that it's my private time that I take for myself. Even if you don't want makeup to be your private time, you owe it to yourself to take care of you...it renews your own self worth and recharges the batteries we all run on.
We all want to be happy with how we look. So I'm going to continue with a few tips that work well for everyday. To start, foundation is a matter of personal choice; whether you skip it completely or want opaque coverage, it is totally up to you. For most people, a sheer lightweight foundation and powdered just in shiny spots works well for everyday. Another tip is to put your foundation (and that includes tinted moisturizer) on first before you conceal anything. That tip changes if you have very dark spots that need a lot of concealing, but most of the time concealer goes on last because foundation in itself creates some concealing effects. Concealing dark spots is best done with peach or orange colored concealers. Concealing of acne is done with a half shade or full shad lighter than your skintone concealer and it's usually lightly yellow but sometimes yellow/peach mixed. Green concealers can be used to counter act redness but that takes skill. Yellow concealers do the same job to cover redness, if not better, and definitely easier.
Choosing a foundation is fairly simple if you know what you are doing. First step is to look at all your skin, not just your face and try to figure out your undertone (essentially the color behind the shade of your skin). Red heads for example tend to have blue/red undertones so any type of foundation that is yellow can make them look sallow or jaundice in worst case scenario. True blue/red foundation is difficult to find, so as a backup pink undertoned foundation can be used. I say pink because pink will match up with some of the red from blue/red undertones without being too obvious (if you have this skin then use either invisible setting powder or very slightly pinked powder; yellow will turn orange with a pink foundation). Very light pink undertoned foundation looks almost white and without any tint of yellow, just as a guide.
So other than very dark or very light people, most people have some yellow in their skin. If this is you, mainstream foundations will be fairly easily matched for you, just find the right depth of color for you skintone. As for powder in this category, choose invisible or very slightly yellow translucent powder to set. Again if you choose a pink powder with yellow foundation, you will turn orange.
Next, Indian or Middle Eastern skin sometimes has a mix of yellow and green. Most of the time you can get away with a yellow toned foundation. If there is a lot of green, I would suggest getting a custom made foundation. You can also try mix a little green concealer with your yellow foundation and see if that works for you. Powder here should be kept super translucent or invisible, but definitely slightly yellowed instead of pink.
African American skintones vary quite widely. They can be yellow, peach/orange, blue/red, or just red in the undertones. Yellow is easy, just follow the steps above if you are only yellow. Peach or orange undertones are dealt with in two separate ways and it depends on how peach or orange you are. If you are mostly yellow, then go with a yellow foundation and a slightly red powder. If you are more red than yellow, go with a red foundation and slightly yellowed powder. Blue/red and Red toned skin is usually the darkest of the dark toned skin types. Red and slightly blue/red dark skin needs a red toned foundation and invisible or very translucent powder applied with a light hand because you don't want to look ashey. Some red dark skinned women will wear a red foundation with red powder, but only do that if it matches your skintones perfectly. Deeply blue/red usually needs custom foundation, which can be found in some department stores or an artist can show you how (I have heard that Iman Cosmetics and Black Pearl Cosmetics may carry good quality foundation for hard to match dark skin). Custom foundation here may also include a mix of two foundations to counter act facial masking if there is any. Any African American skin can have facial masking though. It is dealt with in two ways:
By applying orange concealer on the dark spots and covering with matching foundation. Or it is done by mixing a somewhat lighter foundation onto the dark areas, and then a slightly darker foundation onto the light areas so when blended together they look like the same color all over. Don't forget that undertones matter the most with dark skin as anything wrong will appear bright and ashey on the skin just because dark skin shows contrast very easily. We don't want contrast when it comes to foundation, we want cohesive and harmonious.
Now that you are all matched and ready to go eyes, cheeks and lips for everyday wear are next. A medium shade brown eyeshadow (shimmer or matte depending on preference) can do wonders. Just sweep over lid and under the eyes. Then you blend into the crease, add highlighter shade under brows and mascara....voila! With this particular eye, you can choose any blush and lipstick in the same color family...say peach cheeks with peachy or red/orange lips or pink blush and rose or bubblegum lips. For more drama, use a hot pink blush and true red or blue/red lips.
For a more sophisticated look, there is a three-piece eye that is fairly simple. First, highlighter or light shade all over the lid. Medium shade in the crease, and then a shimmery or matte highlighter shade under the brow (looks best if the light shade from the bottom is different than the one you put under the brow). For this eye choose any sort of color family you want, but use the light and medium shades of that chosen family...unless you feel more artistic and bold as I often do and break that rule. If you want more info and how to break that rule, I can answer that some other time as it is really more of a tutorial.
Stuck on what colors to choose? The most natural looking colors are ones that match your natural coloring. Say again, red heads look great in golds, peaches, and oranges. You can wear colors that do not match your skin tones but keep in mind it will appear more dramatic, and that is to say dramatic is not wrong. There are very few things in makeup that are really wrong, and if there is, it's fixable and tweakable. For most people, I would suggest if you want to try a color that doesn't match your skin tones, try it on only the eyes or only the lips and keep the other matching. If you have unmatched eyes and lips together, for most people, it looks overly dramatic (and there is a time and place for that, always).
Well I hope I have dispelled some of the fears of the unknown with what I have written. I know there are a great many more details to share that pertain specifically to each skintone, but I tried to give the general knowledge version this time. The most important thing to remember that Kevin Aucoin is quoted as saying, "Noboday ever learned anything by playing it safe". So play around with colors you like even if you think they won't work...if it doesn't, try to figure out why it didn't work or what can be mixed to make it work. Worst case scenario, wash it off and start over. Nothing in makeup is permanent, so why not take a risk? Or experiment? I know that's part of my job and it's easy for me to say, but remember I have been the novice too. I have made makeup mistakes. I have had to start over, large and small. So I understand where the fear comes from, but fear is just not a good enough reason not to try.
I mentioned:
Black Pearl and Iman Cosmetics; these can be easily found online and then you can find where it's sold locally close to you.
Thursday, February 24, 2011
Meat and Potatoes of what I do...Find great deals on Makeup!
I would like to start off today with a small apology for not writing this blog sooner. I have been busy preparing myself and my kit for a photo shoot this upcoming weekend! While I have been preparing, I have also been seeking out great deals and spent a lot of time in the cosmetics sections of drugstores and major retailers. Let me tell you...there are many to be found!
Yesterday I started out at Michael's Craft Store. Thankfully many crafts and makeup overlap! You can find all sorts of artist brushes that can double for makeup brushes. I've seen suitable: powder brushes (large and small), foundation brushes, eyeliner and eyeshadow brushes, and even fan countouring brushes! They have a large assortment and you can feel each brush to decide which you like. Also keep in mind the range of prices varies anywhere from $2 to $25 per brush, but most good ones you would need for makeup are under $10 (which is way less than any makeup counter). The important thing here is that Michael's sells quality brushes which completely blows drugstore brush sets out of the water. Also if you more of an artist like me, they also sell palette paper, metal spatula's, jewels, mirrors (which some artists use as a palette), and anything crafty you may need for makeup. Palette paper, just to be clear, keeps moist makeup wet and usable for later use...just tear of the sheet and fold it up for touch ups on a set or photo shoot. I would not, however, expect that paper to last til the following day; it's more of a convenience for professional artists.
Next I went into Walmart and get ready for lots of info here! First, you can actually find good foundations at places like Target and Walmart you just have to know what to look for. Maybelline and Rimmel are my two personal favorites for foundations because they have adequate coverage and staying power. By the way Rimmel foundations cost around $4. They have a 25hr wear "Lasting Finish" that is sweat, heat, and humidity resistant which translates to "it's not gonna budge!".(I believe I also saw that Rimmel sells a foundation primer now though I have not tried it) Maybelline carries a 24 hr wear "Super Stay" which is a little more pricey (around $9) than Rimmel but they have a better selection in some colors. Maybelline also launched a new sheer liquid foundation called "Fit" and it costs around $9. I like that foundation for sheerness and is similar to Makeup Forever HD liquid foundation...just to be clear Makeup Forever is sold at Sephora and costs around $40 per foundation! I'd also like to mention that the Super Stay and Lasting Finish are both medium to full coverage while the Fit foundation has sheer but build-able coverage. So it's a matter of personal choice and what you like for coverage.
As for powders, I usually choose Covergirl. In my opinion their foundations lack but their powders are fairly good. I mean good as far as setting; don't expect these powders to have a lot of coverage. They have many to choose from so these are the few I like ranging from sheer to moderate: Professional loose powder, Trublend pressed powder, and Fresh Complexion pocket powder. The Professional loose powder is great as a translucent setting powder; just be aware that the "light" color has pink tones and the "medium" color has yellow tones. Remember both are translucent so it is more important to get the right tone (yellow or pink) rather than worry about depth of color as there is no depth of color difference between the light and medium shades. There is, though, a deep translucent color called Tawny that has orange tones (meaning yellow and red) and works well for many types of dark skin. The Trublend pressed powder is translucent (according to Covergirl), but compact powder inherently provide slightly more coverage. Again be sure to get the right tone of powder for you. You can check the tones by grabbing two powders side by side, if one looks yellow and one looks pink, then you can choose more easily which is right for you. Just as a side note, most people prefer or look better in yellow toned powders. Choose pink if you have sallow looking or lack luster skin; also good for extremely light (blue/red) skin. Finally, Fresh Complexion is considered Covergirl's powder foundation, however I don't think it is quite up to par as a foundation. This powder is great for touch ups on your foundation throughout the day (and choose the right tone, don't forget). It can be used as a setting powder but, keep in mind with foundation and this powder, you will have opaque coverage!
Eyemakeup is next and there is plenty to discuss here! Mascara, as far as I'm concerned, never needs to be bought at a counter where you spend $30 to $40 per. Maybelline's Great Lash has been America's number one selling mascara for around two decades because it has a small brush (good for artists!) and does not clump. The only draw back to Great Lash is that it only lengthens lashes and does nothing for volume. Not to worry, Maybelle sells numerous volumizing mascaras such as: Volume Express Falsies, Volume Express Collosal, and XXL. If you like lengthening only, Great Lash and Lash Stiletto are really great. L'oreal also has a great mascara called Double Extend and it comes with a lash primer that helps to build volume while the mascara lengthens (I'll get more into L'oreal in a bit...). Revlon takes the cake on eyeliners as they make the smoothest and easiest to apply consistency. My personal choice of eyeliner is the automatic kind that click up as needed and never need a sharpener. If you are stuck on pencils, Revlon sells great pencils too. Finally, they also make bomb liquid liners that come in a felt tip pen or as a typical brush/liquid combination. (I will list a few Revlon liners at the bottom, but really any of them are great)
Eyeshadow is the bane and excitement of my existence. Truly, we have all had bad eyeshadow put on us (say at a counter makeover) or have done a lot of work to make our eyes pretty, only to have it blow away by midday. First rule for eyeshadow, eyecream! Second rule is to prime (though not hard and fast if you use foundation on your eyes) . Eyeshadow priming can be done with various products like: the Aveeno moisturizer I've mentioned in a previous blog (think dimethicone!), cream eyeshadow (use nude and let it half dry before adding powder), or you can buy a specific eyeshadow primer product. Cream eyeshadow is great as a primer if you pick the right type. It is important to be choosy because you do not want to be creasing. Clinique Touch Tint for eyes is great because it dries fully with no creasing and comes in many colors so you can bolden any powder shadow you put on top. Revlon Illuminance cream shadows work well too but apply with a light hand and let dry a bit before adding powder (smooth out cream again after letting dry). Revlon cream shadow has a tendency to crease so use only a little and really work your powder eyeshadow into every crevasse to avoid the creasing later on in the day. Phew...I know it's a lot of work but lets keep going...
Powder eyeshadows can really be hit or miss on pigment content. But remember even a "bad" eyeshadow can be made to look better and last with a primer. Anyway, I prefer to buy shadows in palettes because it's just easier to see how colors go together and it's also a waste to buy a single shadow. Coastal Scents, Shany, BH, and Fash cosmetics brands sell wonderful palettes of shadows ranging from 6 to 120 colors! As a tip, Coastal Scents has a free Fedex ground shipping promotion going on until August 2011! Also FYI those brands are all professional and easily found on their websites or amazon. By professional I mean highly pigmented and super blendable. Common knowledge is that MAC has the best color eyeshadows, but they didn't invent high pigment and the above brands have very comparable color selection and quality. In fact, I just ordered a number of palettes from Coastal Scents and I love them!
I'm going to keep on my budget friendly rambling with lips. My number one tip for lips is DO NOT get attached to any one color! Manufactures are constantly changing colors and formulas up to keep competitive. If you are attached to a single color, I would say buy many of them at a time because next time it may not be there (unused lipsticks can last a while). My second tip is to make your own lip colors. I know you're thinking "what?" but it's really easy. Find a suitable container like a weekly pill box or empty acrylic paint holders that have a few pots stuck together (can be found at craft store). Next you slice off your remaining lipstick or scoop out the bottom (can also be done with glosses). Place the product in the wells, and you can even mix colors together for custom shades. after putting the lipstick in the wells you can microwave for 30 seconds, check to see if melted, if not then do one more 30 second round but that's it! Stir while liquid and then place in freezer for an hour. It is important to note that after it's been frozen back into shape, you cannot microwave the color again (even if it's some time down the road after use).
To continue with lips, I also need to talk about L'oreal like I promised. The hands down best stay on all day and vibrant color is L'oreal's Infallible Lipcolor. It even comes with a gloss you can put on top, although the gloss fades and needs reapplication, the color itself stays on. I used Infallible on the day of my wedding even, because I knew I'd be kissing and eating all day! The other reason I want to talk about L'oreal is because it really is the cheaper, yes cheaper, version of Lancome. Do you like Juicy Tubes from Lancome? L'oreal makes Colour Juice tubes. Their Double Extend mascara is really Lancome Definincils. As I mentioned Double Extend even comes with the primer. At Lancome you have to buy the primer separately for an extra $30! I have not bought L'oreal powders or foundations personally, but I have used Lancome and will say they know good makeup. So if you LOVE Lancome, spend some time in the L'oreal section to find similar products that you like. It's totally worth trying because afterall with cheaper prices you can afford to be wrong...I wouldn't want to buy the wrong thing at a counter that's for sure!
On the subject of makeup counters, I do have a few tips there as well. If you buy something, take it home and try, and it doesn't work...then you have the right to return or exchange even if somewhat used. But as a warning, they are not nice about returns or exchanges! It messes up the counters sales numbers and they have to damage out used product which hurts them. If you are insistent on buying powder or foundation at a counter, be color matched and let it sit on your skin a few minutes and walk outside in real light. If you are satisfied then go back in and buy it, otherwise ask to be re-matched and go outside again. You may drive them crazy and they work on commission, but ultimately it is your face and your money! If you really aren't sure, ask them for a sample and head to out to Target or Walmart to see if you can find it cheaper.
I sincerely hope I have helped shed some light on the plight of shopping for makeup. I hope I've made it easier too! The thing is, there are rules to makeup and rules that are meant to be broken. It's up to us to decide what is right for ourselves, guidance helps but it always our choice in the end. I have worked at makeup counters and I sold well in part because of my philosophy...it's the customer's choice and it was my job to guide, not pressure. Don't be talked into something you don't really like or aren't sure about.
The other thing about makeup is that it is so individual! That's why I love it, I think, because I believe in individuality to my core. Nothing in makeup is permanent and tomorrow is a new day, so keep practicing, trying new things, and learning about yourself. Do not focus on your flaws; view them as a learning tool! We learn from our flaws, both inner and outer....and makeup application does not escape that reality.
Products and Places I mentioned:
Michael's Craft Store (but really any craft store has useful things)
Target and Walmart
Maybelline Super Stay and Fit Foundations, Volume Express Mascaras (Falsies and Colossal), XXL, Great Lash and Lash Stiletto
Rimmel Lasting Finish 25 hr Foundation, Foundation Primer
Covergirl Professional Loose Powder, Trublend Powder and Fresh Complexion powder
Makeup Forever at Sephora or find online...although this is not a cheap brand!
Revlon Illuminance Cream shadow, automatic and regular eye pencils, and liquid eyeliners (felt pen and regular liquid)
Coastal Scents Cosmetics, Shany Coesmetics, BH Cosmetics, and Fash Cosmetics...sold online at amazon, their own websites, or at professional makeup supply stores.
L'oreal Infallible lipcolor, Colour Juice tubes, Double Extend mascara (comparable to Lancome, don't forget!)
Lancome Definicils mascara... not cheap but I did mention it, found at the counter
MAC eyeshadows....also not cheap but found at the counter
Aveeno body lotion...works well for face and priming, it's probably one of the most versatile products that I use.
Yesterday I started out at Michael's Craft Store. Thankfully many crafts and makeup overlap! You can find all sorts of artist brushes that can double for makeup brushes. I've seen suitable: powder brushes (large and small), foundation brushes, eyeliner and eyeshadow brushes, and even fan countouring brushes! They have a large assortment and you can feel each brush to decide which you like. Also keep in mind the range of prices varies anywhere from $2 to $25 per brush, but most good ones you would need for makeup are under $10 (which is way less than any makeup counter). The important thing here is that Michael's sells quality brushes which completely blows drugstore brush sets out of the water. Also if you more of an artist like me, they also sell palette paper, metal spatula's, jewels, mirrors (which some artists use as a palette), and anything crafty you may need for makeup. Palette paper, just to be clear, keeps moist makeup wet and usable for later use...just tear of the sheet and fold it up for touch ups on a set or photo shoot. I would not, however, expect that paper to last til the following day; it's more of a convenience for professional artists.
Next I went into Walmart and get ready for lots of info here! First, you can actually find good foundations at places like Target and Walmart you just have to know what to look for. Maybelline and Rimmel are my two personal favorites for foundations because they have adequate coverage and staying power. By the way Rimmel foundations cost around $4. They have a 25hr wear "Lasting Finish" that is sweat, heat, and humidity resistant which translates to "it's not gonna budge!".(I believe I also saw that Rimmel sells a foundation primer now though I have not tried it) Maybelline carries a 24 hr wear "Super Stay" which is a little more pricey (around $9) than Rimmel but they have a better selection in some colors. Maybelline also launched a new sheer liquid foundation called "Fit" and it costs around $9. I like that foundation for sheerness and is similar to Makeup Forever HD liquid foundation...just to be clear Makeup Forever is sold at Sephora and costs around $40 per foundation! I'd also like to mention that the Super Stay and Lasting Finish are both medium to full coverage while the Fit foundation has sheer but build-able coverage. So it's a matter of personal choice and what you like for coverage.
As for powders, I usually choose Covergirl. In my opinion their foundations lack but their powders are fairly good. I mean good as far as setting; don't expect these powders to have a lot of coverage. They have many to choose from so these are the few I like ranging from sheer to moderate: Professional loose powder, Trublend pressed powder, and Fresh Complexion pocket powder. The Professional loose powder is great as a translucent setting powder; just be aware that the "light" color has pink tones and the "medium" color has yellow tones. Remember both are translucent so it is more important to get the right tone (yellow or pink) rather than worry about depth of color as there is no depth of color difference between the light and medium shades. There is, though, a deep translucent color called Tawny that has orange tones (meaning yellow and red) and works well for many types of dark skin. The Trublend pressed powder is translucent (according to Covergirl), but compact powder inherently provide slightly more coverage. Again be sure to get the right tone of powder for you. You can check the tones by grabbing two powders side by side, if one looks yellow and one looks pink, then you can choose more easily which is right for you. Just as a side note, most people prefer or look better in yellow toned powders. Choose pink if you have sallow looking or lack luster skin; also good for extremely light (blue/red) skin. Finally, Fresh Complexion is considered Covergirl's powder foundation, however I don't think it is quite up to par as a foundation. This powder is great for touch ups on your foundation throughout the day (and choose the right tone, don't forget). It can be used as a setting powder but, keep in mind with foundation and this powder, you will have opaque coverage!
Eyemakeup is next and there is plenty to discuss here! Mascara, as far as I'm concerned, never needs to be bought at a counter where you spend $30 to $40 per. Maybelline's Great Lash has been America's number one selling mascara for around two decades because it has a small brush (good for artists!) and does not clump. The only draw back to Great Lash is that it only lengthens lashes and does nothing for volume. Not to worry, Maybelle sells numerous volumizing mascaras such as: Volume Express Falsies, Volume Express Collosal, and XXL. If you like lengthening only, Great Lash and Lash Stiletto are really great. L'oreal also has a great mascara called Double Extend and it comes with a lash primer that helps to build volume while the mascara lengthens (I'll get more into L'oreal in a bit...). Revlon takes the cake on eyeliners as they make the smoothest and easiest to apply consistency. My personal choice of eyeliner is the automatic kind that click up as needed and never need a sharpener. If you are stuck on pencils, Revlon sells great pencils too. Finally, they also make bomb liquid liners that come in a felt tip pen or as a typical brush/liquid combination. (I will list a few Revlon liners at the bottom, but really any of them are great)
Eyeshadow is the bane and excitement of my existence. Truly, we have all had bad eyeshadow put on us (say at a counter makeover) or have done a lot of work to make our eyes pretty, only to have it blow away by midday. First rule for eyeshadow, eyecream! Second rule is to prime (though not hard and fast if you use foundation on your eyes) . Eyeshadow priming can be done with various products like: the Aveeno moisturizer I've mentioned in a previous blog (think dimethicone!), cream eyeshadow (use nude and let it half dry before adding powder), or you can buy a specific eyeshadow primer product. Cream eyeshadow is great as a primer if you pick the right type. It is important to be choosy because you do not want to be creasing. Clinique Touch Tint for eyes is great because it dries fully with no creasing and comes in many colors so you can bolden any powder shadow you put on top. Revlon Illuminance cream shadows work well too but apply with a light hand and let dry a bit before adding powder (smooth out cream again after letting dry). Revlon cream shadow has a tendency to crease so use only a little and really work your powder eyeshadow into every crevasse to avoid the creasing later on in the day. Phew...I know it's a lot of work but lets keep going...
Powder eyeshadows can really be hit or miss on pigment content. But remember even a "bad" eyeshadow can be made to look better and last with a primer. Anyway, I prefer to buy shadows in palettes because it's just easier to see how colors go together and it's also a waste to buy a single shadow. Coastal Scents, Shany, BH, and Fash cosmetics brands sell wonderful palettes of shadows ranging from 6 to 120 colors! As a tip, Coastal Scents has a free Fedex ground shipping promotion going on until August 2011! Also FYI those brands are all professional and easily found on their websites or amazon. By professional I mean highly pigmented and super blendable. Common knowledge is that MAC has the best color eyeshadows, but they didn't invent high pigment and the above brands have very comparable color selection and quality. In fact, I just ordered a number of palettes from Coastal Scents and I love them!
I'm going to keep on my budget friendly rambling with lips. My number one tip for lips is DO NOT get attached to any one color! Manufactures are constantly changing colors and formulas up to keep competitive. If you are attached to a single color, I would say buy many of them at a time because next time it may not be there (unused lipsticks can last a while). My second tip is to make your own lip colors. I know you're thinking "what?" but it's really easy. Find a suitable container like a weekly pill box or empty acrylic paint holders that have a few pots stuck together (can be found at craft store). Next you slice off your remaining lipstick or scoop out the bottom (can also be done with glosses). Place the product in the wells, and you can even mix colors together for custom shades. after putting the lipstick in the wells you can microwave for 30 seconds, check to see if melted, if not then do one more 30 second round but that's it! Stir while liquid and then place in freezer for an hour. It is important to note that after it's been frozen back into shape, you cannot microwave the color again (even if it's some time down the road after use).
To continue with lips, I also need to talk about L'oreal like I promised. The hands down best stay on all day and vibrant color is L'oreal's Infallible Lipcolor. It even comes with a gloss you can put on top, although the gloss fades and needs reapplication, the color itself stays on. I used Infallible on the day of my wedding even, because I knew I'd be kissing and eating all day! The other reason I want to talk about L'oreal is because it really is the cheaper, yes cheaper, version of Lancome. Do you like Juicy Tubes from Lancome? L'oreal makes Colour Juice tubes. Their Double Extend mascara is really Lancome Definincils. As I mentioned Double Extend even comes with the primer. At Lancome you have to buy the primer separately for an extra $30! I have not bought L'oreal powders or foundations personally, but I have used Lancome and will say they know good makeup. So if you LOVE Lancome, spend some time in the L'oreal section to find similar products that you like. It's totally worth trying because afterall with cheaper prices you can afford to be wrong...I wouldn't want to buy the wrong thing at a counter that's for sure!
On the subject of makeup counters, I do have a few tips there as well. If you buy something, take it home and try, and it doesn't work...then you have the right to return or exchange even if somewhat used. But as a warning, they are not nice about returns or exchanges! It messes up the counters sales numbers and they have to damage out used product which hurts them. If you are insistent on buying powder or foundation at a counter, be color matched and let it sit on your skin a few minutes and walk outside in real light. If you are satisfied then go back in and buy it, otherwise ask to be re-matched and go outside again. You may drive them crazy and they work on commission, but ultimately it is your face and your money! If you really aren't sure, ask them for a sample and head to out to Target or Walmart to see if you can find it cheaper.
I sincerely hope I have helped shed some light on the plight of shopping for makeup. I hope I've made it easier too! The thing is, there are rules to makeup and rules that are meant to be broken. It's up to us to decide what is right for ourselves, guidance helps but it always our choice in the end. I have worked at makeup counters and I sold well in part because of my philosophy...it's the customer's choice and it was my job to guide, not pressure. Don't be talked into something you don't really like or aren't sure about.
The other thing about makeup is that it is so individual! That's why I love it, I think, because I believe in individuality to my core. Nothing in makeup is permanent and tomorrow is a new day, so keep practicing, trying new things, and learning about yourself. Do not focus on your flaws; view them as a learning tool! We learn from our flaws, both inner and outer....and makeup application does not escape that reality.
Products and Places I mentioned:
Michael's Craft Store (but really any craft store has useful things)
Target and Walmart
Maybelline Super Stay and Fit Foundations, Volume Express Mascaras (Falsies and Colossal), XXL, Great Lash and Lash Stiletto
Rimmel Lasting Finish 25 hr Foundation, Foundation Primer
Covergirl Professional Loose Powder, Trublend Powder and Fresh Complexion powder
Makeup Forever at Sephora or find online...although this is not a cheap brand!
Revlon Illuminance Cream shadow, automatic and regular eye pencils, and liquid eyeliners (felt pen and regular liquid)
Coastal Scents Cosmetics, Shany Coesmetics, BH Cosmetics, and Fash Cosmetics...sold online at amazon, their own websites, or at professional makeup supply stores.
L'oreal Infallible lipcolor, Colour Juice tubes, Double Extend mascara (comparable to Lancome, don't forget!)
Lancome Definicils mascara... not cheap but I did mention it, found at the counter
MAC eyeshadows....also not cheap but found at the counter
Aveeno body lotion...works well for face and priming, it's probably one of the most versatile products that I use.
Monday, February 21, 2011
Story of my life...There is a budget for beauty
(as always every product I mention in the blog will be posted at the bottom)
I've only been temporarily employed for brief stints in my adult life. Whenever I began a traditional job, I would end up very sick and end up having to leave work. I'm not talking your normal sniffles...I once was gravely ill with the flu for an entire month with fevers everyday. I stayed in my home the entire time and still ended up with bronchitis that required an inhaler. Following that I had my first optic nerve problem. I'm not proud of not being able to work at various points in my life; infact that is the bane of my self esteem quite a bit. I'm only mentioning these things because I know the importance of getting the best bang for your buck.
By always having a goal to get the most beauty for my dollar, I feel I've done the indepth research needed to be a near expert. First, I do all my own grooming and makeup application. I have splurged for the occasional mani-pedi but I also have done a significant amount of those at home. It truly saves a bundle if you just commit to doing all your own regiments. I'm realizing now that this blog could get long with all of my money saving advice; so I will keep this blog centered on grooming. Following blogs I'll discuss saving money on actual makeup.
That being said, lets talk first about nails. Going to a nail salon is like just throwing away money. Unless you really feel you owe yourself a good foot rub...I suggest doing your own nails. As I've said in previous blogs, I have my own electric file and dryer. Both items cut down on the filing and drying time of natural nails. Where it used to take me three hours to do my mani-pedi (including drying time), it now only takes about 45 minutes including the drying time! That's huge! Just plop yourself in front of the tube and watch Ophrah while you work. I prefer talk shows when I'm working because you don't really have to watch, just listen. Anyway, my mom found my electric file and dryer in a nail kit at JC Penney but I have also seen them sold at a good price at Sally's Beauty Supply.
I refuse to spend another $9.00 per polish on OPI...it's never happening again, EVER! Walgreens has a great brand called Sinful Colors and I swear to you they have better staying power than OPI. They range from $2 to $4 each and Walgreens often puts them on sale two for one. Sinful Colors even has a really great base coat that truly makes the polish last on natural nails. I've searched far and wide, high and low for a great topcoat. My personal favorite is Sally Hansen Advanced Hard as Nails Strengthening Topcoat. Yes I know it's a long name and they have many topcoats, so if you are looking to buy this, write down the name VERBATUM like I wrote it. The reason I love it so much is that it dries quickly but has a glass type perfect shine that lasts! With the combination of Sinful Colors base and color polish plus this topcoat, I have seriously had a natural nail home manicure last 7 to 10 days. Using these polishes on toes yields even better results...that polish will stay on til you decide your toes need clipping! And one more thing about natural nails...as long as you have a great basecoat, any nail polish will last longer.
Grooming your own brows can also be done at home. I personally tweeze because it gives me something to obsess about, but there are great waxing products by Sally Hansen. Walmart and Target also have brow shaping templets in their cosmetics isles. If you prefer tweezing as well, Revlon makes some good quality tweezers. Please when you buy tweezers only use them plucking hair or applying false lashes...if you use them for everything they will not last long. My pair of brow tweezers I've had for 13 years, no joke. Also those brow templates I mentioned work well for tweezing or waxing.
Since we are on the subject of hair removal, I have some great tips for shaving. First, use conditioner instead of shaving lotions. Conditioner is great for your skin while you shave and also helps save money. Second, only use razors 2-3 times before discarding and store razors outside of the shower. I say that because mold, mildew, and bacteria love to grow in the moistness of the shower...you do not want to end up with an infection or staph. I use razors only a couple of times because the older the razor is, the less clean and sharp it is. I myself do not want infested razors near my skin, and oh by the way your pores open when you shave.
Next, I'd like to discuss where you can get great makeup tools. I've found great false eyelashes (strips and singles), glue, eyelash curlers, and lip balm at the dollar store! In particular, I found them at my local 99 Cent Only store. Peruse around your local dollar store and see what you find! For makeup brushes think outside the box a little bit...Michaels Crafts stores sell an endless array of artist brushes for way cheaper than any makeup counter. If you prefer mainstream, Sonia Kashuk and E.L.F. at Target are really on their game when it comes to quality brushes. My personal favorite Kashuk brush is an eyelash comb/brow brush combo. I love it because the eyelash comb has metal teeth which is extremely hard to find. Before I found the Kashuk metal comb, I hadn't seen a metal one since 2006. A metal comb is perfect for de-clumping and giving you that feathered-eye look.
For home grooming tips, I'm going to continue with hair and coloring. Now keep in my mind I am not a professional beautician, but many principles for hair and skin are the same. Also, my older sister is licensed and has given me some of these tips I will share.
First, your conditioner is of the utmost importance. Conditioner keeps the hair manageable and healthy. Fine hair requires a light consistency conditioner so as not to weigh it down. Frizzy, curly, dry, or generally unmanageable hair needs a thicker, more emollient conditioner. Some even require hot oil or hair masks to tame or hydrate. Second, not every hair coloring requires ammonia. If you wish to darken your color, you do not need to use an ammonia based colorant. Ammonia lightens the base color and deposits colorant...if you are going darker then you only need to deposit the color. As for lightening your hair, unless you are absolutely sure you can do it properly, I actually suggest going to a stylist. The same goes for highlights, they are best done by professionals.
Finally I would like to talk about a book that I own that has helped me with this blog. It's called "The Complete Beauty Book" by Helen Foster. Check out the book and find so many more at home beauty tips. It includes everything beauty from head to toe and even how to eat for beauty.
Taking care of yourself is important no matter what stage of life you are in. Only you can take care of you. I've learned that through persuing medical help and also by being at home. The most important thing about that book and others that I read, is that it helps me stay connected to who I am despite being ill. Even if I can't work or I don't have very much money, I can still take care of myself at home.
I hope that by writing this blog other women can see how beauty, even if you are doing it at home, is about taking care of yourself. I'm not so shallow about cosmetics that I don't know there is an importance to inner beauty. I know that fully. Preparing the outside to be beautiful, helps to bring out confidence. Confidence is one of the greatest motivators I can think of. Confidence motivates us to be ourselves and share our inner beauty. Sharing my knowledge and helping out other women is what I am ultimately about. I'm giving myself a break on my flaws, and I want everyone else to do the same. We are all beautiful; every size, every shape, every color, every circumstance.
Products I mentioned:
Sinful Colors nail polish is available at walgreens and online.
Sally Hansen: Advanced hard as nails strengthening topcoat, Target or Walmart
Sally Hansen also has a wide variety of waxing and depilliatory products
JC Penney and Sally Beauty Supply carry electric files and nail dryers
Revlon for tweezers, Target or Walmart
Michaels Crafts store for cheaper artist brushes (can be used for makeup)
Sonia Kashuk is sold at Target
E.L.F is sold at Target or online
Garnier and Loreal both have great ammonia free haircolors, Target or Walmart
"The Complete Beauty Book" Helen Foster, Borders Books
I've only been temporarily employed for brief stints in my adult life. Whenever I began a traditional job, I would end up very sick and end up having to leave work. I'm not talking your normal sniffles...I once was gravely ill with the flu for an entire month with fevers everyday. I stayed in my home the entire time and still ended up with bronchitis that required an inhaler. Following that I had my first optic nerve problem. I'm not proud of not being able to work at various points in my life; infact that is the bane of my self esteem quite a bit. I'm only mentioning these things because I know the importance of getting the best bang for your buck.
By always having a goal to get the most beauty for my dollar, I feel I've done the indepth research needed to be a near expert. First, I do all my own grooming and makeup application. I have splurged for the occasional mani-pedi but I also have done a significant amount of those at home. It truly saves a bundle if you just commit to doing all your own regiments. I'm realizing now that this blog could get long with all of my money saving advice; so I will keep this blog centered on grooming. Following blogs I'll discuss saving money on actual makeup.
That being said, lets talk first about nails. Going to a nail salon is like just throwing away money. Unless you really feel you owe yourself a good foot rub...I suggest doing your own nails. As I've said in previous blogs, I have my own electric file and dryer. Both items cut down on the filing and drying time of natural nails. Where it used to take me three hours to do my mani-pedi (including drying time), it now only takes about 45 minutes including the drying time! That's huge! Just plop yourself in front of the tube and watch Ophrah while you work. I prefer talk shows when I'm working because you don't really have to watch, just listen. Anyway, my mom found my electric file and dryer in a nail kit at JC Penney but I have also seen them sold at a good price at Sally's Beauty Supply.
I refuse to spend another $9.00 per polish on OPI...it's never happening again, EVER! Walgreens has a great brand called Sinful Colors and I swear to you they have better staying power than OPI. They range from $2 to $4 each and Walgreens often puts them on sale two for one. Sinful Colors even has a really great base coat that truly makes the polish last on natural nails. I've searched far and wide, high and low for a great topcoat. My personal favorite is Sally Hansen Advanced Hard as Nails Strengthening Topcoat. Yes I know it's a long name and they have many topcoats, so if you are looking to buy this, write down the name VERBATUM like I wrote it. The reason I love it so much is that it dries quickly but has a glass type perfect shine that lasts! With the combination of Sinful Colors base and color polish plus this topcoat, I have seriously had a natural nail home manicure last 7 to 10 days. Using these polishes on toes yields even better results...that polish will stay on til you decide your toes need clipping! And one more thing about natural nails...as long as you have a great basecoat, any nail polish will last longer.
Grooming your own brows can also be done at home. I personally tweeze because it gives me something to obsess about, but there are great waxing products by Sally Hansen. Walmart and Target also have brow shaping templets in their cosmetics isles. If you prefer tweezing as well, Revlon makes some good quality tweezers. Please when you buy tweezers only use them plucking hair or applying false lashes...if you use them for everything they will not last long. My pair of brow tweezers I've had for 13 years, no joke. Also those brow templates I mentioned work well for tweezing or waxing.
Since we are on the subject of hair removal, I have some great tips for shaving. First, use conditioner instead of shaving lotions. Conditioner is great for your skin while you shave and also helps save money. Second, only use razors 2-3 times before discarding and store razors outside of the shower. I say that because mold, mildew, and bacteria love to grow in the moistness of the shower...you do not want to end up with an infection or staph. I use razors only a couple of times because the older the razor is, the less clean and sharp it is. I myself do not want infested razors near my skin, and oh by the way your pores open when you shave.
Next, I'd like to discuss where you can get great makeup tools. I've found great false eyelashes (strips and singles), glue, eyelash curlers, and lip balm at the dollar store! In particular, I found them at my local 99 Cent Only store. Peruse around your local dollar store and see what you find! For makeup brushes think outside the box a little bit...Michaels Crafts stores sell an endless array of artist brushes for way cheaper than any makeup counter. If you prefer mainstream, Sonia Kashuk and E.L.F. at Target are really on their game when it comes to quality brushes. My personal favorite Kashuk brush is an eyelash comb/brow brush combo. I love it because the eyelash comb has metal teeth which is extremely hard to find. Before I found the Kashuk metal comb, I hadn't seen a metal one since 2006. A metal comb is perfect for de-clumping and giving you that feathered-eye look.
For home grooming tips, I'm going to continue with hair and coloring. Now keep in my mind I am not a professional beautician, but many principles for hair and skin are the same. Also, my older sister is licensed and has given me some of these tips I will share.
First, your conditioner is of the utmost importance. Conditioner keeps the hair manageable and healthy. Fine hair requires a light consistency conditioner so as not to weigh it down. Frizzy, curly, dry, or generally unmanageable hair needs a thicker, more emollient conditioner. Some even require hot oil or hair masks to tame or hydrate. Second, not every hair coloring requires ammonia. If you wish to darken your color, you do not need to use an ammonia based colorant. Ammonia lightens the base color and deposits colorant...if you are going darker then you only need to deposit the color. As for lightening your hair, unless you are absolutely sure you can do it properly, I actually suggest going to a stylist. The same goes for highlights, they are best done by professionals.
Finally I would like to talk about a book that I own that has helped me with this blog. It's called "The Complete Beauty Book" by Helen Foster. Check out the book and find so many more at home beauty tips. It includes everything beauty from head to toe and even how to eat for beauty.
Taking care of yourself is important no matter what stage of life you are in. Only you can take care of you. I've learned that through persuing medical help and also by being at home. The most important thing about that book and others that I read, is that it helps me stay connected to who I am despite being ill. Even if I can't work or I don't have very much money, I can still take care of myself at home.
I hope that by writing this blog other women can see how beauty, even if you are doing it at home, is about taking care of yourself. I'm not so shallow about cosmetics that I don't know there is an importance to inner beauty. I know that fully. Preparing the outside to be beautiful, helps to bring out confidence. Confidence is one of the greatest motivators I can think of. Confidence motivates us to be ourselves and share our inner beauty. Sharing my knowledge and helping out other women is what I am ultimately about. I'm giving myself a break on my flaws, and I want everyone else to do the same. We are all beautiful; every size, every shape, every color, every circumstance.
Products I mentioned:
Sinful Colors nail polish is available at walgreens and online.
Sally Hansen: Advanced hard as nails strengthening topcoat, Target or Walmart
Sally Hansen also has a wide variety of waxing and depilliatory products
JC Penney and Sally Beauty Supply carry electric files and nail dryers
Revlon for tweezers, Target or Walmart
Michaels Crafts store for cheaper artist brushes (can be used for makeup)
Sonia Kashuk is sold at Target
E.L.F is sold at Target or online
Garnier and Loreal both have great ammonia free haircolors, Target or Walmart
"The Complete Beauty Book" Helen Foster, Borders Books
Sunday, February 20, 2011
Skincare...We all want a perfectly smooth canvas.
Wherever I go I am told my makeup is flawless or I have beautiful skin. I appreciate the flattery but I will be serious and say it's not by accident. With so many beauty products on the market it's often hard to know what is right for you and what's not. My view of skincare is simple yet still versatile for every skin type.
First thing is first...now brace yourself. I wash my face with oil. Now calm down and breath for a minute. I'm going to say it again, I wash my face with oil (i'll list my preference of brands at the bottom of the blog). Oil breaks down oil and dirt in the skin. There is no prior makeup removal necessary as the oil will break down makeup as well. The other important thing to remember is that I rub the oil on the skin while it's DRY and then wash it off with water. I follow with a salicyclic toner only at night. Also for me, the oil is enough moisturizer so I don't use any unless I plan to put on makeup. Next I'll get into the specifics for skin type.
Dry:
If you have dry skin, you can either wash off the oil and just add moisturizer or wipe it off and again add moisturizer if you wish. If you prefer to use a toner after washing off the oil, I must really insist that you choose an alcohol free toner and follow with moisturizer. Alcohol terribly dries the skin.
Also, all that false info about exfoliating away dry patches of skin....DON'T DO IT. Traditional exfoliators with beads or apricot pits are too harsh on the skin (too harsh for anyones skin in my opinion). The goal is to have beautiful soft skin...so an exfoliating type mask is best with lactic acid or salicylic acid. For a homemade hydrating mask use half an avocado, teaspoon olive oil, half cup of milk (it has lactic acid), and just enough flour to make it pasty. Leave on for twenty mins, wash off with water (or more oil and water), and add moisturizer.
Oily:
If you have oily skin, you can STILL wash your face with oil, wash it off with water, and follow with a toner or even medicated acne toner. The point of the toner is to remove the excess cleansing oil. For moisturizing, that is somewhat left up to a personal choice. If you moisturize oily skin (and you do for makeup application) choose an oil free moisturizer or one that moisturizers and controls oil. Also, remember to be gentle with oily skin just as you would with dry skin...they both deserve the same respect and are both subject to loss of elasticity.
As far as exfoliation, the same rule applies as above, no harsh scraping cleanser type exfoliators. A good mask for oily skin is half cup milk, couple tablespoons of honey (don't use if you have an allergy), couple tablespoons of oatmeal, an egg, and again just enough flour to make it pasty. Leave on for twenty mins and oil wash face, toner, and moisturize.
Normal/Combination:
This skin type is the most common and you have the most freedom in what you do for skin care...thank your lucky stars! I know your thinking, "well what about the dry spots and the oily t-zone" and trust me when I say that you will have less oily t-zone and dry patches once you start washing your face with oil. The oil is gentle enough for the dry patches and breaks up the oil in the t-zone. Now what you do after you wash with oil is up to you. You can choose to use an alcohol free toner to remove excess and then use moisturizer. Or you can wash off the oil with water and pat dry with a towel and skip the moisturizer. This is my skin type so I tend to use a salicylic acid toner only at night after washing off the cleansing oil. In the morning I wash with oil and towel dry and follow with moisturizer if I'm going to wear makeup...but if you prefer toner morning and night and it doesn't dry out your skin, it is fine to do so. If you choose to use toner, you MUST always follow with moisturizer otherwise you will end up with unbalanced dry/oily spots.
I haven't forgotten that this skin type tends to get dry in the winter and oilier in the summer. First, you have to remember your skin will go back to normal and be easier to manage just by cleansing with oil, alc free toner, and using moisturizer. For winter if you are dry use a cream (or pot) type moisturizer that is a little thicker, and you can use that morning and night as needed. For oily spells in the summer choose a light oil free moisturizer or skip it all together and carry oil blotting sheets. And yes, I cleanse, tone and moisturize even in the summer and all of us should.
Skin care extras:
If you are interested in using a vitamin or hydrating serum, please only use at night. Also there are hundreds of types of serums to choose from and all of them are best used only at night. Serum use goes as follows: Oil wash face, toner (if preferred), serum, and follow with moisturizer. The serum is thinner and permeates the skin, the moisturizer holds the serum in the skin, and the reason we do it at night is because that is when our skin repairs itself.
Eyecreams are another hot topic that everyone loves to obsess about. The low down on that is, use eyecream atleast once a day no matter how old you are. Any sort of regular eyecream will do. I personally prefer to use eyecream in the morning because I feel my skin is young enough to not need "repairative" eyecream at night. If you want to use eyecream only once a day: morning is the time to do it as it helps to fight off free-radicals and also helps your eye makeup look and stay better. Intensive anti-aging eyecreams should be used only at night as again, that is when our skin repairs. Even aging eyes do not need anti-aging eyecream for the morning (that should be a relief on your pocket book since you can use any type of eyecream you like for daytime).
I would be remiss if I didn't talk about spf. Do we need it? Yes. All the time and every occasion? No. Spf moisturizer is best worn only in the day time. If you wear spf moisturizer to bed you are likely to unnecessarily clog your pores. Also, for certain professional photography, spf moisturizer or foundation are really not a good idea as they reflect light and make you appear pasty in photos.
And to wrap this up with a little heart to heart and insider marketing tips; I must mention that I purposely described morning and night use of each product. Manufactures sometimes embellish and say "use serum morning and night" in order for you to use it faster and therefore buy more. The same goes with anti-aging eyecream...again only for night. If you used it morning and night you can clog up your delicate undereye skin and also need to buy more anti-aging eyecream sooner (in effect screwing you out of great skin and your money!).
As I described in my first blog I really do love to make people beautiful. My quest in makeup is to make everyone in my chair look their very best. Because I take that purpose very seriously, I want to reach out to women and help them with beauty befuddlements as much as I can. I am open to questions and will blog about any and all that are sent my way. I also hope to try out products and report back to all my readers on how to use them or if they are even worth your time. I am ready and willing to take any and all questions and try out and all products. My opinions are always honest and thoughtful; I will never say I like something when I don't. I don't consider myself a guru yet, but I feel my knowledge base is broad enough to be helpful in bringing out beauty. I want this blog to be a learning experience for many as well as myself.
Skincare Products I Prefer:
Palmers Cocoa Butter Moisturizing Body Oil (I use as cleansing oil). I like this because it washes off clean with water and leaves no residue.
Kiehls and Shu Eumura also make great cleansing oils.
Neutragena Alcohol-Free Toner (you can powder an asprin and add to toner for acne fighting effects)
Clinique Mild Clarifying Lotion is a great toner because it is alcohol free and uses .5% salicyclic acid to help minor acne and sluff off dead skin cells.
Kiehls Ultra Facial Moisturizer CREAM (not lotion) is good for dry or winter skin. The lotion is great light moisturizer for oily or combination skin.
Aveeno Daily Moisturizing Body Lotion is actually a great light moisturizer for the face. It has 25% dimethicone in it which is good as a makeup primer and also won't clog pores.
Clinique All About Eyes eyecream is good daily eye cream. They have a rich version or the regular and they both work well so it's matter of texture to choose from and personal preference. This formula also has the added benefit of making eyeshadow more vivid and last longer.
Kiehls Avocado Eyecream is a great daily eyecream that goes on smooth as water.
Estee Lauder Renutriv Intensive Eye Repair is hands down the best anti-aging eyecream. I have seen lifting results with this cream in a matter of a couple uses.
First thing is first...now brace yourself. I wash my face with oil. Now calm down and breath for a minute. I'm going to say it again, I wash my face with oil (i'll list my preference of brands at the bottom of the blog). Oil breaks down oil and dirt in the skin. There is no prior makeup removal necessary as the oil will break down makeup as well. The other important thing to remember is that I rub the oil on the skin while it's DRY and then wash it off with water. I follow with a salicyclic toner only at night. Also for me, the oil is enough moisturizer so I don't use any unless I plan to put on makeup. Next I'll get into the specifics for skin type.
Dry:
If you have dry skin, you can either wash off the oil and just add moisturizer or wipe it off and again add moisturizer if you wish. If you prefer to use a toner after washing off the oil, I must really insist that you choose an alcohol free toner and follow with moisturizer. Alcohol terribly dries the skin.
Also, all that false info about exfoliating away dry patches of skin....DON'T DO IT. Traditional exfoliators with beads or apricot pits are too harsh on the skin (too harsh for anyones skin in my opinion). The goal is to have beautiful soft skin...so an exfoliating type mask is best with lactic acid or salicylic acid. For a homemade hydrating mask use half an avocado, teaspoon olive oil, half cup of milk (it has lactic acid), and just enough flour to make it pasty. Leave on for twenty mins, wash off with water (or more oil and water), and add moisturizer.
Oily:
If you have oily skin, you can STILL wash your face with oil, wash it off with water, and follow with a toner or even medicated acne toner. The point of the toner is to remove the excess cleansing oil. For moisturizing, that is somewhat left up to a personal choice. If you moisturize oily skin (and you do for makeup application) choose an oil free moisturizer or one that moisturizers and controls oil. Also, remember to be gentle with oily skin just as you would with dry skin...they both deserve the same respect and are both subject to loss of elasticity.
As far as exfoliation, the same rule applies as above, no harsh scraping cleanser type exfoliators. A good mask for oily skin is half cup milk, couple tablespoons of honey (don't use if you have an allergy), couple tablespoons of oatmeal, an egg, and again just enough flour to make it pasty. Leave on for twenty mins and oil wash face, toner, and moisturize.
Normal/Combination:
This skin type is the most common and you have the most freedom in what you do for skin care...thank your lucky stars! I know your thinking, "well what about the dry spots and the oily t-zone" and trust me when I say that you will have less oily t-zone and dry patches once you start washing your face with oil. The oil is gentle enough for the dry patches and breaks up the oil in the t-zone. Now what you do after you wash with oil is up to you. You can choose to use an alcohol free toner to remove excess and then use moisturizer. Or you can wash off the oil with water and pat dry with a towel and skip the moisturizer. This is my skin type so I tend to use a salicylic acid toner only at night after washing off the cleansing oil. In the morning I wash with oil and towel dry and follow with moisturizer if I'm going to wear makeup...but if you prefer toner morning and night and it doesn't dry out your skin, it is fine to do so. If you choose to use toner, you MUST always follow with moisturizer otherwise you will end up with unbalanced dry/oily spots.
I haven't forgotten that this skin type tends to get dry in the winter and oilier in the summer. First, you have to remember your skin will go back to normal and be easier to manage just by cleansing with oil, alc free toner, and using moisturizer. For winter if you are dry use a cream (or pot) type moisturizer that is a little thicker, and you can use that morning and night as needed. For oily spells in the summer choose a light oil free moisturizer or skip it all together and carry oil blotting sheets. And yes, I cleanse, tone and moisturize even in the summer and all of us should.
Skin care extras:
If you are interested in using a vitamin or hydrating serum, please only use at night. Also there are hundreds of types of serums to choose from and all of them are best used only at night. Serum use goes as follows: Oil wash face, toner (if preferred), serum, and follow with moisturizer. The serum is thinner and permeates the skin, the moisturizer holds the serum in the skin, and the reason we do it at night is because that is when our skin repairs itself.
Eyecreams are another hot topic that everyone loves to obsess about. The low down on that is, use eyecream atleast once a day no matter how old you are. Any sort of regular eyecream will do. I personally prefer to use eyecream in the morning because I feel my skin is young enough to not need "repairative" eyecream at night. If you want to use eyecream only once a day: morning is the time to do it as it helps to fight off free-radicals and also helps your eye makeup look and stay better. Intensive anti-aging eyecreams should be used only at night as again, that is when our skin repairs. Even aging eyes do not need anti-aging eyecream for the morning (that should be a relief on your pocket book since you can use any type of eyecream you like for daytime).
I would be remiss if I didn't talk about spf. Do we need it? Yes. All the time and every occasion? No. Spf moisturizer is best worn only in the day time. If you wear spf moisturizer to bed you are likely to unnecessarily clog your pores. Also, for certain professional photography, spf moisturizer or foundation are really not a good idea as they reflect light and make you appear pasty in photos.
And to wrap this up with a little heart to heart and insider marketing tips; I must mention that I purposely described morning and night use of each product. Manufactures sometimes embellish and say "use serum morning and night" in order for you to use it faster and therefore buy more. The same goes with anti-aging eyecream...again only for night. If you used it morning and night you can clog up your delicate undereye skin and also need to buy more anti-aging eyecream sooner (in effect screwing you out of great skin and your money!).
As I described in my first blog I really do love to make people beautiful. My quest in makeup is to make everyone in my chair look their very best. Because I take that purpose very seriously, I want to reach out to women and help them with beauty befuddlements as much as I can. I am open to questions and will blog about any and all that are sent my way. I also hope to try out products and report back to all my readers on how to use them or if they are even worth your time. I am ready and willing to take any and all questions and try out and all products. My opinions are always honest and thoughtful; I will never say I like something when I don't. I don't consider myself a guru yet, but I feel my knowledge base is broad enough to be helpful in bringing out beauty. I want this blog to be a learning experience for many as well as myself.
Skincare Products I Prefer:
Palmers Cocoa Butter Moisturizing Body Oil (I use as cleansing oil). I like this because it washes off clean with water and leaves no residue.
Kiehls and Shu Eumura also make great cleansing oils.
Neutragena Alcohol-Free Toner (you can powder an asprin and add to toner for acne fighting effects)
Clinique Mild Clarifying Lotion is a great toner because it is alcohol free and uses .5% salicyclic acid to help minor acne and sluff off dead skin cells.
Kiehls Ultra Facial Moisturizer CREAM (not lotion) is good for dry or winter skin. The lotion is great light moisturizer for oily or combination skin.
Aveeno Daily Moisturizing Body Lotion is actually a great light moisturizer for the face. It has 25% dimethicone in it which is good as a makeup primer and also won't clog pores.
Clinique All About Eyes eyecream is good daily eye cream. They have a rich version or the regular and they both work well so it's matter of texture to choose from and personal preference. This formula also has the added benefit of making eyeshadow more vivid and last longer.
Kiehls Avocado Eyecream is a great daily eyecream that goes on smooth as water.
Estee Lauder Renutriv Intensive Eye Repair is hands down the best anti-aging eyecream. I have seen lifting results with this cream in a matter of a couple uses.
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